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After a restful and relaxing zero day spent with Jo, Rob and her family at their house in Takapuna, we wanted to set off as early as possible as it would be a long day back on the trail… at least for me.
Saying goodbye to Jo’s place, our home for two days.
First we had a 7 kilometre walk to Devonport. Then I had 16 kilometres along the Coast to Coast Walkway, then an additional 4 kilometres or so to Ambury Regional Park where we had decided to stay for the night.
Julia had mentioned that if she could leave her bag at the ferry terminal she would maybe walk the Coast to Coast trail again with me. I thought that sounded like a great idea, but I still had some errands to run in the city. I needed to pick up my resupply box from the Wellesley Street post office and I’d decided it might be a good time to purchase my hut pass.
Our intention to leave at 7.30AM was thwarted somewhat by Jo who made us eggs, bacon and hash browns with a mango peach smoothie for breakfast. It was so delicious!
Bidding Jo and Rosie the dog a very thankful goodbye after experiencing their hospitality for two full days.
At 7.45AM we were ready to leave, and we thanked Jo and her family heartily again for their hospitality. We’d picked them up some goodies and a thank you card which we gave to them, and then we had our final goodbyes and pushed off!
The day started with a beautiful walk along the Takapuna coastline.
Hiking along the coastal walkway section of Te Araroa just south of Takapuna.
Looking back up Takapuna Beach on the way into Auckland city.
Before we reached North Head and began our climb up to the Scenic Reserve.
Climbing up a short grassy track to the main North Head Reserve.
Rangitoto Island from the climb up to the North Head gun emplacements.
Hiking along the track at North Head Reserve, with the Waitematā Harbour to the left and the urban sprawl of Auckland up ahead.
We’d arrived at the Devonport ferry terminal by 9.30AM (much quicker than I’d anticipated), which included a stop at the North Head gun emplacements for some tourist photos.
This photo doesn’t include the struggle it took to clamber onto this historic gun emplacement at North Head Reserve.
Two historic guns stand watch over the Waitematā Harbour at the North Head Reserve.
I’d already begun to notice how much hotter and humid it was in Auckland. The air seemed to be thicker and more difficult to breathe.
It was a beautiful little walk from the gun emplacements to the ferry terminal, and when we reached the terminal it was nice to tick off another milestone along the trail’s length.
Walking along pathways past historic villas on the way towards the Devonport ferry terminal.
The Devonport Ferry Terminal building marks the end of another section of trail, and another milestone conquered!
To our surprise there wasn’t another ferry until 10.15AM, even though all the others seemed to leave every half hour. So we sat around and waited for a bit, enjoying the enforced rest. As we waited, we were greeted by an older German lady called Chris. She was also a Te Araroa hiker and seemed to be travelling nice and light. She mentioned she’d been hiking with a group that included Diego (the Argentinian), Hunter (the kiwi) and Kenneth (the Swiss). Julia knew most of these people from Raetea forest, so immediately she had some common ground. It was the first time on trail where I felt really left out because of my decision to skip such a huge chunk of the trail early on, but I couldn’t help being happy for Julia as she chatted with Chris.
Passengers wait to board the ferry to Auckland city.
The ferry soon arrived and Julia and I decided to sit outside on the upstairs deck for the best views. There were some ominous looking dark clouds in the distance, but they never broke.
Happy to finally be making our way into Auckland city, after hiking through the greater Auckland region for almost a week.
Snapping a quick shot of the skyscrapers of Auckland CBD, with the Sky Tower towering above all, on our way into Auckland city on the ferry.
The crossing was nice and smooth and about 15 minutes later we were docking at the ferry building at Prince’s Wharf! We were finally in Auckland!!
Arriving at Princes Wharf, Auckland, with the iconic Ferry Building dominating the landscape.
We made a beeline for the nearby iSite information centre so I could purchase my Department of Conservation hut pass. There was already another Te Araroa hiker at the information centre talking to the DoC representative, although he hadn’t started hiking yet. We got chatting to him and tried to put his mind at ease about some sections that he was nervous about. The DoC representative was very interested in what feedback we had from the trail, and made a special point of telling us to kick out any tourists or Te Araroa hikers that hadn’t paid for any huts along the way!
By this time I was conscious of time marching along as it was now 11AM and I still had the bulk of my day to go. It was going to cost $10 to store our packs at the ferry terminal, so I opted to carry mine with me and Julia decided she would skip doing this section again. Instead, I left her to enjoy her day exploring Auckland whilst I made my way down Queen Street to the Wellesley Street post office to collect my resupply box.
On the way I stopped to pick up some more sunglasses (I had somehow lost my new ones already, possibly leaving them behind in Jenny’s car) and also a nice lightweight towel from Bivouac.
I had a nightmare of a time trying to find the post office. When I arrived at the main building there was a sign on the door advising it had relocated to a temporary office about 500 metres back up the road. When I eventually reached the new office, I was told that their parcel collection was still at the original location, so I had to walk all the way back again!
By the time I got back there, I was getting very frustrated. I also had an awful feeling that I couldn’t shake, that perhaps my box had been lost. Thankfully, the lady at the post restante desk found my box and handed it to me. I could barely wait to open it. I really needed a little message of encouragement from Mum today.
But when I opened the box, there was nothing scrawled on the lid inside! I was disappointed, and sadly started packing my supplies into my food bag. When I got to the bottom of the box, I saw a little brown envelope with a note written on it. It said:
“Just throw away when you’re done… don’t carry the extra weight! xx”
Collecting my resupply box via the post restante service in Auckland City’s Wellesley Street post office.
Inside, was a collection of random items. A piece of string. A marble. An elastic band. A 10 cent coin. And a paper clip. There was also a little note, which read:
A piece of string to tie your loose ends together;
A marble in case you are losing yours;
A coin so you will never be broke;
A rubber band to stretch yourself to full potential; and
A paper clip to hold it all together.
The sentiment was overwhelming, and I felt tears welling in my eyes.
The small packet of trinkets hidden in the bottom of my resupply box.
Filled with renewed vigour I headed off towards the trail, ditching some of the water I was carrying along the way. I wound my way through the Auckland University campus, hiking past the gym where I used to do yoga, and the quad where I used to eat.
My old stomping ground at Auckland University. It feels strange to be back, and too many memories to properly digest.
Veering off towards the Auckland domain I climbed a steep(ish) hill before reaching the top and a navigational nightmare.
Entering the Auckland Domain, and passing someone who looks suspiciously like a TA hiker, but never to be seen again by us.
A section of the paved pathway through the Auckland domain.
I’d discovered that my tried and trusty Te Araroa app was impossible to use in a built up area like Auckland. I was in desperate need of turn by turn navigation through the maze of streets, but due to an issue with the app (apparently limited only to iOS versions) I was unable to zoom in close enough to use it. Each time I zoomed in close, the map would disappear and be replaced by large grey boxes.
A pretty looking pond next to the Auckland Domain Wintergardens.
Instead, I tried to rely as best I could on the Coast to Coast Walkway signs. But there weren’t many of them, and they were difficult to find.
When I arrived at the Museum and Wintergardens I hiked in the opposite direction for a while before eventually realising my mistake. It took me around half an hour of walking around the Wintergarden grounds before I realised I was supposed to be back on the road.
Auckland Museum from the top of the Auckland Domain.
The geometrically pleasing grounds of the Auckland Wintergardens glasshouse and conservatory. I got lost here for almost half an hour trying to find the trail route, which actually followed the road.
I ended up hiking along a grassy field where the trail directed me up a small hill (I now know is Pukekaroa Hill)… only to have me come straight back down the other side! There seemed to be no apparent reason why the trail went up the hill, although there was a small fenced section at the top which looked like it could have been an old Māori settlement. But there were no signs indicating the significance. The frustrating thing was there was a very flat road running through the park which would have been much faster and ended up at the same place.
I’ve later found out that this small hill is the scoria centre of the pukekawa volcano, one of the oldest in the Auckland volcanic field. On top of the cone is an historic tōtara tree which has protected status due to the fact it was planted on the first centenary of the signing of the Treaty of Waitangi. It turns out, this is indeed the site of an historic pā also.
Looking back on the Auckland Domain Cricket Ground with Pukekaroa Hill in the middle distance.
With five days’ food now in my pack, and still a long way to go, I was beyond frustrated at this lack of information and seemingly pointless detour.
After a short walk along some roads, I arrived at the base of Mt Eden, a large dormant volcanic cone located right in the centre of Auckland CBD. I wasn’t looking forward to the climb, so I decided to stop for a lunch break.
Looking down at the busy State Highway One.
Reaching the Maungawhau / Mt Eden walkway at the bottom of the mountain. I stopped for lunch shortly after snapping this shot.
It turned out I’d hyped up the climb more than it deserved. It was a very short and relatively easy climb, being paved most of the way. Once at the summit I took some photos and enjoyed the fact that I could pick out the route I would be taking for the rest of the day from this high vantage point.
The iconic Mt Eden summit crater drops away into a crevice beneath the track at the top of the mountain.
From the top of Mt Eden, it’s possible to see where the remainder of the Coast to Coast Walkway goes with One Tree Hill in the middle distance.
It was soon time to leave, but it wasn’t long before I realised that I couldn’t follow the trail route back down Mt Eden because the crater was closed for boardwalk maintenance. Instead of detouring a long way out of my way, I had to be a bit creative. I found a track a little further down that didn’t look closed. I cut across to where the trail otherwise would have been and arrived at a gate which was placed across it. It turned out this part of the trail was closed too, but there hadn’t been a sign saying so at the place I entered.
Although I’d made it down the mountain, I was really struggling for direction now. I missed a trail which veered off the summit road because it was behind some bollards, and it must have taken me an hour from first setting foot on the mountain to coming out the other side.
Hiking across a large grassy field on my way through Auckland on the Coast to Coast Walkway.
A random street walk somewhere in Auckland city on the way through to Onehunga.
I was now walking towards Cornwall Park. It was a very easy walk, but it was all on road or pathways which was strenuous on my feet and legs. It was also getting hotter as the day wore on.
Cornwall Park marked by a set of stone gates.
At the Cornwall Park gates there was a water fountain which I drank deeply from. I was running out of water, having believed that it would have been more readily available along the way. I reluctantly stopped at the high-end cafe in the middle of Cornwall Park. In my sticky, sweaty and stinky state I walked inside to looks of bemusement, and asked for a can of cold drink. I was grateful when the lady at the desk gave me a cold can of Sprite for the hefty price of $5!
A well-manicured pathway takes hikers on a scenic walk through Cornwall Park.
I thanked her profusely, and could almost hear the sighs of relief when I left. I sat outside enjoying every single sip of that liquid gold, enjoying the feeling of the cold bubbles bouncing off the sides of my throat as they may their way down.
Approaching one of the many stock gates in Cornwall Park. The park is used as a working farm, so it’s not uncommon to encounter sheep and cows along the way.
I was thankful that it seemed the trail route would not be taking me directly up to the summit of One Tree Hill, the main attraction in the centre of Cornwall Park. This meant an easy walk through the park on a relatively simple pathway.
Looking up towards the summit of One Tree Hill from the pathway below.
But when I emerged from the park on the other side, I immediately found myself lost again. The Coast to Coast signs either seemed to be pointing the wrong way, or the App was directing me in a different direction.
A small ‘beach’ and grassy area next to the lake at Onehunga Bay Reserve.
Crossing the Taumanu Reserve Bridge over the South Western Motorway at Onehunga.
Into Onehunga and Mangere, I found my way to the bridge over the South Western motorway before encountering a fence blocking the entrance to Mangere Bridge.
Reaching the old Mangere Bridge track closure (with Mangere Bridge just visible in the distance).
The bridge was in the process of being upgraded, and so instead I had to hike along a shared pathway underneath the motorway. This area of Auckland is notorious for its higher crime rates, and I couldn’t help but notice the security booths at either end of the covered walkway, and the security cameras posted at intervals along its length.
Hiking under the new Mangere Bridge on a small underpass.
When I reached the other side, there were two security guards sitting in the booth at the other end. I waved them a hasty goodbye with a nervous smile, and carried on walking.
At a bench on the other side of the bridge I reluctantly stopped for a break. I was very close to my final destination now, but my feet were throbbing from all the road walking.
Walking along the scenic pathway along the Mangere coastline.
And the bottom of my legs were burning with the return of the heat rash I’d suffered on Ninety Mile Beach. I’d been experiencing some pretty bad calf pain again in the last few days of walking, so just before I left Jo’s house this morning she gave me some heat rub which she said did wonders for her tight calves. I was half convinced it was this rub which was causing my current problem, and was annoyed I hadn’t thought about it for longer before accepting.
The old Mangere Bridge stretches across the harbour.
I was fast approaching the 600 kilometre trail milestone. The pathway towards the Regional Park wound around the headland and I took shortcuts where I could.
At the place I gathered up some stray grass clippings and arranged them in the shape of a big “600” before taking a very quick photo.
600 kilometres done and dusted! Another milestone completed!
The gates to Ambury Regional Park weren’t far away now. When I arrived, there was a road to the left which went straight to the site office, but a Te Araroa sign pointed to the right. I followed the TA route and immediately found myself in a paddock full of ewes and their lambs.
The entrance gate to Ambury Regional Park finally appears after a very long day of hiking.
It wasn’t a great place to be, despite the fact that it was neat to be so close to them. I could easily find myself in a bad position between a mother and her lamb, so I made a beeline for the fence line. When I arrived there I saw another TA sign. But now it was on the other side of the fence!
The large flock of freshly shorn sheep on the approach to Ambury Regional Park.
I cursed, before walking 100 metres back along the fence to a gate which had a tiny trail marker hidden behind a wooden fence post. It was almost invisible to hikers approaching from the direction I had come.
Thankfully, things were much simpler from that point. I followed a worn pathway around the headland before arriving at the campsite. There were a few stray sheep and lots of pukeko, but more than anything it was incredibly peaceful. It seemed strange to find a working farm right in the middle of Auckland.
A small gravelled pathway leads into a field just through the Ambury Regional Park gate.
I saw Julia’s tent through a gap in the fence and then spied Paul (continuing his trend of leapfrogging us along the trail) at the gate. He said he’d also hiked in today, and filled me in on his progress. Julia was out exploring the park, so I decided to put my tent up before she got back.
When she returned, we sat at a picnic bench cooking and chatting before I decided to go and rinse off the sweat and heat of the day (and the heat rub) from my weary body in the site shower. To my surprise, it was about a 10 minute walk to the shower through beautiful fenced paddocks filled with animals, many of which were young. There were peacocks and lambs, and calves, and cows, and hens and chickens and sheep and turkeys and pigs.
I absolutely loved being around it all.
The showers left a little to be desired, but I noted there were flushing toilets here as opposed to the long drops at the campground. At the end of the day it was nice to be clean, and I decided I was very impressed with my new towel.
On my way back from the shower I stopped at a small lean-to to pay for my accommodation for the night. It was a little difficult to work out where I needed to leave the money, but I see now you can actually book this campsite online (which is much easier).
My tent pitch at Ambury Regional Park.
By the time I got back to the tent, it was well into dusk and time to retreat to the comfort of my tent to take care of some errands. I sat inside as the light dropped, listening to the sounds of the animal noises which punctuated the night.
It was very light outside, and more campers turned up in campervans or converted sleepers the later it got. I was worried some of them might be too noisy for our small group of exhausted trail walkers, but I was pleasantly surprised.
But the night was warm and I found myself very comfortable all night, which resulted in a very good sleep, ready for another long day of city walking through to Manukau tomorrow.
prefer to watch?
Watch the full video from this section of Te Araroa below.
